"...The
medical mission station on the island of Ambrym was situated
in one of the beauty spots of the New Hebrides (pre-Independance
name of Vanuatu)....the hospital had become a centre of
busy life and activity. But little did the staff and patients
imagine that underneath the calm and luxuriance of external
nature the forge of Vulcan was being set up and they were
really living over a slumbering volcano. On the day when the
eruptions took place, the wards of the hospital were filled
with patients.
In the centre of the island...stood the active volcano, Mt
Benbow, named after one of the British men-of-war (ships)
which visited the islands....The H.M.S "Benbow" concluded
that the (Ash Plain) is the basal wreck of a much loftier
volcano which was shattered by an eruption in bygone days
and that Ambrym Island...now remains as a memorial to the
destroyed volcano.
..But
all unknown to the natives, and to the British and French
settlers who had their homes in Ambrym, there stretched from
east to west a belt of volcanic fracture, which was studded
with extinct craters (maars), occasional puffs of steam
being the only indication of the pent up fire beneath.
In December 1913, the age long sleep...was broken and the
imprisoned giants awoke.
From numerous thunder-throated vents the island was rent and
torn by convulsive explosions. The outburst was heralded by
a series of earthquake(s)...increasing in frequency and severity
until the solid earth reeled and tottered. The hospital buildings
rocked like ships at sea. The natives said...that Ambrym danced.
Then, from the newly formed vents was seen to rise as the
blackest London fog, a dense cloud which shot up like a pillar
and spread out in all directions like a mushroom. In a short
time ash and cinders began to fall, making a noise like hailstones
and smothering Ambrym and the adjacent islands in a thick
layer of volcanic ash.
...During
the day dense volumes of smoke could be seen hanging over
the island...but the natives of Paama (Island,where the
missionary was stationed) thought that a bush fire was
raging....But ...the approach of darkness removed all doubts,
revealing one of the most awful and... magnificent sights
that it is possible for they eye of man to behold. Over an
area of ten miles the earth seemed to have opened up and out
of this huge fissure tongues of living flame were shooting
up into the sky. In one place...six volcanoes had burst out
within a short distance of each other and out of these six
furnaces, pillars of fire were leaping....Rivers of molten
lava were flowing from the newly formed craters, and so great
was the flood of this liquid that no single channel could
carry it...In the darkness, winding among the hills, the track
of red hot lava was like the trail of a serpent....When the
enormous mass of... lava mingled with the waters of the ocean...An
Aurora Borealis of shooting stars - really masses of lava
at white heat - could be seen leaping and jumping continuously;
and to such a height was the column of steam shot up that
it seemed as if a new volcano had burst out at the sea shore.
Outbursts continued during the entire night...masses of molten
lava, red, white and glistening were hurled to a great height...forming
a display of fireworks such as is given to few mortals to
behold....As night wore on it seemed as if the ground of Paama
(20 miles away) was about to open.....As soon as our
motor boat could be launched we set off to the rescue....We
could see crowds of natives assembled...near Pansileo...waving
branches to signal us. The people were terror stricken. They
had come from the fire zone around Port Vato..their houses
and belongings had been buried deep in ash and scoria. Every
green leaf was stripped or scorched from the trees...the land
was a very desolation to behold. With the promise of return
we set off with all possible speed for the hospital district.
The journey down the Ambrym coast was fearsome in the extreme...Ash
and cinders were falling all around and the sea was covered
with floating debris and pumice stone. Several volcanoes were
belching out near the sites of villages. At intervals tremendous
explosions occurred, when all nature seemed to reel. The scene
resembled pictures... of Judgment Day - heaven and earth in
ashes burning. But what a shock of surprise and horror we
sustained when on rounding Craig Cove Point we saw a volcano
belching out from the hospital grounds!
....(From
the survivors some time later) we got the story of their
marvelous deliverance. Unaware of the fracture line across
the island) the worst that could happen, the doctor imagined,
would be a flow of lava down the valley behind the mission
station; but, as the (hospital) was encircled with
a high ridge of hills, it seemed impossible for such an event
to occur..Some of the staff...went over to have a look (at
the lava flows)..Like an incandescent avalanche, (the
lava) swept everything before it...tossing huge trees
into the air. Falling back into the incandescent lava the
(trees) bounced like india-rubber balls. This lava
stream was 10 miles long, 200 yards broad and was travelling
at the rate of 4 miles per hour. A fearful cauldron was formed
when the lava reached the sea...it shivered like melted glass,
into millions of particles: gigantic blisters were formed,
exploding like miniature volcanoes. The sky was darkened and
for miles around the sea was covered in dead fish and debris
of all sorts.
...After daybreak...terrified natives from the inland village
arrived with news that the earth had opened up some distance
up the valley and the molten lava had formed a lake of fire...Large
numbers of cripples and old people had been left behind to
perish...
(Evacuating
the hospital) an inferno burst out between the (volcano)
they were watching and the sea, within 500 yards of the station....They
could see one side of the hill belching fire, not a quarter
mile away. Setting their teeth the (doctor and assistant)
made their way for the hospital to ascertain the place was
clear, they raced back to the boat...while the ground heaved
and swayed beneath them. At the boat landing...the sea was
boiling and the boat lay a little off the beach. ...Throwing
(a box) into the water between them and the boat Mr.
Bailey and he sprang from it into the boat. They had gone
just a short distance when the earth reeled with a great thunder,
and looking back, the doctor saw the fragments of his house
and hospital hurled into the air. A volcano had burst out
in the middle of the hospital grounds...a column of compressed
steam was shot up with such prodigious velocity that in less
than a minute it had reached 20,000 ft above the level of
the crater, filling the atmosphere with dust and ash and cinders.
At this elevation the particles of finely powdered rock were
caught by the prevailing winds...A mail steamer, running between
Australia and Fiji, several hundred miles away, had her decks
covered with volcanic ash....The compressed steam rushing
at lightening velocity from the newly formed vent turned the
volcano into a gigantic hydro-electrical machine, and generated
great quantities of electricity. The atmosphere was charged
with it, and every few seconds there issued from the murky
clouds flashes of vivid lightening.....it seemed as if they
were going to be smothered in the burning cinders...So hopeless
did their position seem that they actually discussed whether
it would not be preferable to meet death by drowning than
to be burned alive by falling cinders.
....Out at sea they met a schooner which had come from the
island of Malekula to the rescue. Transferring their refugees
(from the launch) into the schooner, those lion hearted
fellows went back with the launch into the mouth of hell,
in the hope of rescuing some more of the helpless natives.
At the Craig Cove boat landing they found a crowd of refugees
awaiting a chance rescue. As they were making their way into
the boat passage, the eruption, still following the line of
volcanic weakness, made a further leap, and reached it's last
stage. Out to sea, about a mile from where the hospital stood,
a submarine volcano burst and formed an island 330 ft high.
The upheaval caused a tidal wave and made the sea so rough
that the launch could not approach the boat landing. Signals
were made to the natives to go over the hill to a boat landing
on the other side. There they crammed the boat full of refugees.....
....I confined our rescue operations to the districts of Ambrym
contiguous to Paama...the mission launch was an open boat
and great care had to be taken lest it might be rushed and
swamped...A heathen man with a naked and painted body, would
clamber with his gun in one hand and a screaming child in
the other...There was no distinction made between heathen
and Christian. All were bundled together in a great tribulation
and in the general eagerness to get away, no-one thought of
the other but as companions in suffering.
Mid way across the channel, a strange and wondrous sight was
seen. From under the clouds a bright streamer suddenly appeared,
winding down the mountain side, glowing crimson. It was a
lava stream from a fissure eruption on the edge of the ash
plain. This fiery stream like a red ribbon, so beautiful withal,
continued to glitter and shine far into the night. It lit
up the clouds above. and shed a strange, unearthly brilliance
over its tortuous path.
...One of the volcanoes threw out great quantities of a material
resembling spun glass, called Pele's hair. Heavy showers of
those glass filings fell upon the villagers. As the natives
have a superstitious dread of this particular kind of discharge
the sacred men declared that the spirit of the volcano was
angry with them. To appease the wrath of the offended demon
a number of young fellows were told...to climb the volcano
with bunches of coconuts and throw them into the crater as
a peace offering....In spite of the terrible danger..they
actually reached the top and looked down into its awful depth....There
was sadness in their voices when they reported the state of
matters up above..The fire was unquenchable, and they recognized
they would have a stiff fight with the coconuts to stop it.
When this method proved ineffectual, the
heathen natives accused each other of causing the eruption*
and began fighting. So that the extraordinary thing happened,
that while rivers of molten lava were destroying life and
property the heathens were killing each other...!
...An
old chief of Paama...who showed great kindness to the refugees
told me that when he was a boy he could remember a big volcanic
outburst on the (nearby) island of Lopevi when large
crowds of natives...sought refuge on Paama. I asked the old
man if he was as kind then...with a smile he said, "We ate
them."
...(Some days after the eruptions had ceased) Over
the place where the hospital stood was a depth of 12 fathoms
of water. When the soundings were taken by the H.M.S. "Sealark",
the lagoon formed a safe, land locked hurricane harbour for
ships of shallow draft (the entrance has since been completely
blocked with over 1 km of mud and subsequent lava flows -
all that remains is a lake). The first time an attempt
was made to enter the lagoon a submarine explosion startled
the occupants of the boat, and quenched the desire for further
exploration....So complete was the destruction of the hospital
and mission buildings that not even a match was left...and
large numbers of lives were lost (officially 21, but the
total number could only be guessed at).
*One
local account states the eruption was caused by the doctor
and staff of the Mission Station. Told not to eat certain
taboo coconuts and fruit, lest the offense incur the wrath
if the volcano Gods, the European doctor ignored the warning
as superstitious heathenism. Only a few weeks were to pass
before the hospital and station were swallowed by the bowels
of the earth.